A couple of weeks ago, Jonah and I went on a fairly impromptu road trip down to upstate New York, and what an incredible time we had. Upstate New York has really exploded in popularity in recent years, and it felt like everywhere I looked, people were going on these beautiful trips to the area (or just up and moving there!). So when we decided we felt like going on a bit of a staycation, upstate NY felt like an easy choice.
Only about 7 hours by car from Toronto, or 2 from New York, the towns of upstate NY have a real charm to them. If you’re also looking to plan any getaways this summer, I thought it might be helpful to share the ins-and-outs of what we got up to over our four days in the area.
To Stay
Hotel Lilien. Hotel Lilien is located in the town of Tannersville, perched in the Catskill mountains. The hotel opened in 2022 after being fully renovated and restored, and the attention to detail here is truly unmatched. Beautiful interiors, ample space in the lounge to chill out, and the friendliest staff & owners I’ve ever encountered in a hotel (for real, I could have spent all day chatting with them). The 1890s building has maintained so much of its charm, from the stained glass windows to the original woodworking. We stayed in the king room, which was bright and serene with its tall ceilings, exposed beams, and massive windows. The bed was also next-level comfy. Before we left we were already talking about coming back in the fall to see the colours, which I’m sure are incredible from the hotel’s perch on the mountainside. This hotel is truly something special, and I couldn’t recommend it more.
To Do
Hike to Kaaterskill Falls. The staff at the hotel gave us a few ideas for hikes, and Kaaterskill Falls ended up being our pick. We walked about 45 minutes along the rail trail to the lookout point for the falls, which gave such an incredible view. There is also a separate hike down some stairs to the lower bowl of the falls, which we didn’t get around to doing, but I’m sure is equally beautiful. The falls apparently get quite busy on weekends, so if possible, do what we did and go mid-week.
Walk the Vlei Marsh Trail. A quick but very scenic stroll around some wetlands, but don’t be surprised as I was if you encounter a snake. But in all seriousness, the trail was beautiful and gets you right up close with the marsh and all its inhabitants!
Antiquing in Rhinebeck. It felt like it wouldn’t be a trip to upstate without popping into at least one antique store. We ventured to the Beekman Arms Antique Market, which is essentially two floors filled with antique treasures. Be prepared to have a bit of a rummage and take your time looking through everything.
Strolling around Hudson. The town of Hudson is a must-see when you’re in the Hudson Valley. The main strip along Warren St. has so much charm to it, I could have spent all afternoon popping into all the little shops along the way.
To Eat
Stissing House. Nominated for a James Beard award for Best New Restaurant, I’m kind of in disbelief that we were able to score a reservation here only a few days ahead of time. The building itself has been around since the 1700s, and is a sight to see in its own right. I could truly have spent all day here exploring the different rooms, setting up camp with a book on any one of the couches. But most importantly, the food was incredible. Unfussy but so flavourful, it was somehow rustic but upscale at the same time. We got the rabbit pie for two, which came with a pea puree and local greens. It was a bit of a trek from our hotel at about an hour and 15 minutes, but worth every minute of the journey to get here.
Golden Russet. Half grocery store, half café, we stopped into Golden Russet on our way to Rhinebeck. They serve some truly delicious sandwiches, and have a great selection of cider if you’re looking to bring some home with you.
Phoenicia Diner. The quintessential roadside diner that feels like stepping back in time. Exactly the sort of food you’d expect, but with a real emphasis on local ingredients and farms. Their onion rings are a must order, and I’m still regretting not ordering a milkshake because I just know they do a good one.
The Maker Restaurant. Located inside the Maker Hotel in Hudson, we came here for Jonah’s birthday dinner. We ate in the most stunning glass conservatory, surrounded by greenery, and overlooking the stunning hotel pool deck. The menu really celebrated local and seasonal ingredients, and had some delicious drinks to boot. It was a great way to experience this truly beautiful hotel without breaking the bank on a night’s stay.
And that’s the roundup of our trip upstate! There’s so much more to explore, including Woodstock and Kingston (we went on a Tuesday when just about everything in town was closed). While we were only there for four days, it felt like we got a real getaway out of it. Must be that fresh mountain air!
