Edinburgh is a city for old souls. Although it was my first time visiting, I instantly felt at home amongst the medieval buildings, cobbled streets, and cozy pubs.
As I love to do when I return from a trip, I thought I would share everything we got up to on our four days in Edinburgh, in case you’re planning a trip of your own. Of course I’m no expert on the city after a mere few days, but Jonah and I had such a lovely time that at the very least, I needed to document it for posterity.
TO DO
Scottish National Gallery | A sprawling museum featuring Vermeer, Rembrandt, Cézanne, Monet, Sargent, and notable Scottish artists including Sir Henry Nasmith, William McTaggart, and the Glasgow Boys.
Scottish National Portrait Gallery | This beautiful museum tells the story of Scotland through portraiture, in an absolutely incredible setting. The Great Hall alone is worth the trip — especially if you happen to be visiting over the holidays.
The Writers’ Museum | A small museum dedicated to three of Scotland’s most prolific writers: Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson. It’s a free museum and absolutely worth the visit.
Stockbridge | My personal favourite corner of the city, Stockbridge is filled with gorgeous little shops, restaurants, and cafés. The cobbled streets and quaint shopfronts of the neighbourhood are how the city will continue to live on in my head until my next visit.
St. Cuthbert’s Kirkyard & Princes Street Gardens | If you need a little reprieve from the chaos of Princes Street, drop into St. Cuthbert’s Kirkyard for a little meander. It really is a peek into the more haunted side of the city and a look at how the city’s residents of the past commemorated death.
Dean Village | Nestled along the Water of Leith, Dean Village is a historic section of town known for its mill buildings and industrial past. It’s a tranquil little escape from the bustle of the city and a gorgeous little stroll.
TO EAT
Lannan | I’m normally not one to wait in line for things if I don’t have to, but in this case, it was absolutely worth it. And I say that as someone who couldn’t even eat the sweets because of my allergies — regardless, they were a feast for the eyes and we did in fact drop by twice.
Patatino | Located inside the Hoxton (more on that in a moment), Patatino is an ode to southern Italian cooking. This was some of the best pasta we’ve had since our trip to Italy last September.
The Captain Darling | An absolutely delicious spot for lunch. We went for their £12.5 worker’s lunch and the fish pie was the perfect warming meal.
Makars Mash Bar | Sometimes you just have to play the tourist. We were curious whether it would be over-hyped but the food was absolutely delicious. The sticky toffee pudding here was Jonah’s favourite of the trip — and we had several over the entire ten days. I will say it was the most expensive meal of our trip and the ambiance was one of the more casual, so something to keep in mind if you’re looking for something more elevated!
Mary’s Milk Bar | Another spot I had to experience vicariously through Jonah, Mary’s Milk Bar is an old school little ice cream parlour with house-made chocolates and other treats.
Alby’s | A gorgeous little sandwich shop in Leith, perfect for lunch if you find yourself in the area!
The Scran & Scallie | Our last meal of the trip and my personal favourite. The Scran & Scallie is a lovely little pub in Stockbridge serving some really beautiful food. Get the steak pie, fish and chips, and sticky toffee pudding and thank me later. This was my favourite pudding of the whole trip, if you’re keeping track.
Dishoom | We haven’t stopped talking about our dinner at Dishoom in London three years ago, so we of course had to go back now that they have an Edinburgh location. The black daal and chicken ruby were just as good as we remembered them being.
Mellis Cheese | Stop in for a Scotch egg and slice of cheese while strolling around Stockbridge.
TO SHOP
Treen | A multi-brand boutique celebrating sustainable fashion, natural fibres, and timeless design.
Dick’s Edinburgh | A treasure trove of independent and emerging brands, along with Scottish heavy hitters like Harley of Scotland and Mackintosh.
Golden Hare Books | A beautiful indie bookshop selling books that have a real sense of place.
Toast | A perennial favourite no matter which city I’m in, but particularly here because many of their wool pieces are actually made in Scotland. I picked up the loveliest wool triangle scarf that feels like a really understated but beautiful souvenir.
Kestin | A gorgeous spot for more Scottish-made knitwear. It’s mostly a menswear shop but all the best sweaters are oversized anyways!
Brora | Brora is another Scotland-based knitwear brand that focuses on Scottish cashmere. While their cashmere is out of my personal budget, their wool pieces are just lovely; I left with this ever-so-Scottish fair isle knit tank.
Walker Slater | Tweed pieces that feel traditional yet wearable, right in the heart of Victoria Street.
Edinburgh Mercantile | Utilitarian objects made beautifully, from socks to stationery and home fragrance to dishware.
TBCo | The perfect spot for all things cozy — pyjamas, wool blankets, scarves, and candles.
Bard | This is one that didn’t quite make it into the itinerary, being that the four days we were in town also happened to be the four days of the week they aren’t open (the shop is open Friday through Sunday or by appointment). Bard celebrates Scottish craft and design, and would be a beautiful spot to visit for a special souvenir.
Epitome | Another one we didn’t quite have time for, Epitome is a gorgeous independent boutique with a real eclectic mix of brands, from the whimsy of Cawley Studio to the sleek minimalism of Studio Nicholson.
Armstrongs Vintage | Vintage heaven, with everything from knits to kilts. I could have spent hours in here happily!
Armchair Books | An absolute haven for book-lovers, Armchair Books is the quintessential sort of slightly-overwhelming-but-endlessly-inspiring used bookshop.
TO STAY
I had a really difficult time deciding on a hotel for Edinburgh, because there were a fair few options that felt beautifully designed while not being overly pricey (unlike cities like London and Paris where even the most basic hotel will run a few hundred dollars). We ended up opting for the Hoxton, which was the perfect middle ground between being relatively central but slightly removed from the tourist chaos.
The Hoxton, Edinburgh is located just around the corner from the Haymarket tram stop in a row of gorgeous Georgian townhomes. As with the other Hoxton locations I’ve stayed at, the sprawling lobby made for an inviting hangout spot and the rooms were luxuriously spacious (we stayed in the Cosy Up room for reference). The bed was absolutely divine, the breakfasts were delicious, and the double-height ceilings felt like a real treat for a hotel room. I always leave the Hoxton feeling super inspired by their interiors, and this time was no different!
And that’s it! Everything we got up to on our four days in Edinburgh (plus a few bonus items that I’m saving for next time). Thank you as always for reading!
