Henry Miller once said, “When spring comes to Paris the humblest mortal alive must feel that he dwells in paradise,” and he was absolutely correct.
I just got back from two weeks in France, which began with a week in the city of lights. It was only my second time in Paris, but as I’ve said numerous times in the weeks before and after my trip, it’s been over a decade since my last visit so in some ways it felt like the first time. And certainly, when you experience a place at 17 and again at nearly 28, your perspective is entirely different.
I’ll be honest, Paris didn’t captivate me on my first visit. Perhaps because it was the second stop on a whirlwind London-Paris trip with my family (teenage brothers included), or maybe because it was the middle of July and Paris was in the throes of a record heatwave, but it always left something to be desired. This time, however, felt completely different, and I really felt like I saw the magic that people describe when they talk about Paris.
As I love to do when I return from a trip, I thought I would share everything I got up to in case you’re planning a trip. Of course I’m no expert on the city, but my mum and I had such a lovely time that at the very least, I needed to document it for posterity.
TO DO
Musée d’Orsay | My first real experience with art growing up was my mum’s love of Impressionism. For as long as I can remember, the living room in my childhood home has held a massive reproduction of Renoir’s Bal du moulin de la Galette. So of course, a visit to the d’Orsay was a must, as it houses the world’s largest collection of Impressionist and post-Impressionist artworks. It’s a huge museum but not nearly as overwhelming as the Louvre (which we visited, saw a few key works, and left), so I found it easier to take my time and truly enjoy.
Rodin Museum | To me, the Rodin is the perfect museum. It’s housed in a beautiful old building, there is as much to see inside as there is out, and it was the perfect balance between having enough to see without being overwhelming. We booked an early time slot, and the museum was nearly empty, so I would suggest doing that if you want to be able to really take it in. And make sure to save time for the gardens as well.
Musée de l’Orangerie | A smaller museum that is home to Monet’s famous Water Lillies, on the grounds of the Tuileries.
Watch the Eiffel Tower Light Show | After dusk, the Eiffel Tower twinkles for a couple of minutes, every hour on the hour. For the best view without the crowding on the Champ de Mars, go to the riverbank at these coordinates instead: 48°51’34.0″N 2°17’25.3″E (many thanks to Courtney (prettylittlefawn) for sharing this tip years ago, which I stashed away for future-me knowing I would be back in Paris one day).
The Tuileries Gardens | Bring a book and a snack, and sit in one of the iconic green chairs to people watch. An afternoon well-spent in my eyes.
Montmartre | Don’t do what we did and visit Montmartre on a holiday, but apart from the crowds, it was so lovely to explore Amélie’s stomping grounds. We stayed not far away in Pigalle so we were able to visit a couple of times; each time we found new pockets of beauty and it still felt like we barely scratched the surface of this iconic neighbourhood. If you’re hoping to visit the photo booth, try going before 9 am to beat any lines!
The Bouquinistes | Another classic, the Bouquinistes (or booksellers) are located along the Seine and are so much fun to check out. We gave ourselves extra time to get to dinner one night and took the scenic route along the river.
Palais-Royal | Home to the iconic black and white columns known as Colonnes de Buren, Palais-Royal is a pocket of quiet in the middle of the 1st arrondissement. Grab a coffee at Café Kitsuné and stroll the manicured tree-lined pathways away from the crowds of the Louvre.
TO STAY
It’s no secret that Paris hotels aren’t cheap, but if there’s one thing about me, it’s that I have a knack for finding gems that don’t break the bank. We stayed at Hôtel Rochechouart in Pigalle, and what a special little spot it was. It’s got a distinct art deco vibe that harkens back to glamorous nights on the town in the roaring ’20s. We booked the Classic room with the Sacré Coeur view, and breakfast included. I genuinely looked forward to the breakfast each morning, which offered the creamiest scrambled eggs I think I’ve ever tasted, cheeses, meats, fruit, delicious coffee and teas, and of course, ample baguettes and croissants. The hotel was so beautifully designed, the staff beyond kind & helpful, and the views from our room and the rooftop sublime. It was quite rainy during our trip so we didn’t make it for drinks at the rooftop bar, but I’ll just have to save that for next time. It was also well-located, within a 10-minute walk to 3 Metro stations servicing multiple lines. I couldn’t recommend this spot more.
TO SHOP
Carel | Some people go to Paris for Chanel, I go for Carel. I wish I was joking when I say that this was my first stop of the trip, after dropping our suitcases off at the hotel. Pop by for a keepsake that’s a little more budget-friendly than a designer bag, but equally as Parisian (and leaps and bounds more unique).
Bourgine | A tiny little shop a stone’s throw from the Luxembourg Gardens, Bourgine makes all their clothing on-site at the boutique on Rue Racine. I picked up an adorable little chore jacket that feels quintessentially French but with a bit of quirkiness.
Marin Montagut | Nearby Bourgine is Marin Montagut. Montagut is an artist, and the boutique is home to the most whimsical little goodies that showcase his work. From ceramics with the iconic green chairs, silk scarves with city maps, glassware, journals, and so much more. If only I had unlimited suitcase space, because that was truly the only thing holding me back from spending far too much money here.
Sézane | Is it even possible to visit Paris without a trip to Sézane? I think not, and with locations scattered throughout the city, they make it all too easy. The quintessential Parisian brand and one I truly love so dearly.
Inoui Editions | If the thought of owning an Hermès scarf is tempting, but the price tag is slightly off-putting, allow me to introduce you to Inoui Editions. Equally as whimsical, in myriad fabrications including silk, cashmere, cotton, and wool, one of these scarves would make a lovely keepsake without breaking the bank.
The Marais | I could either ramble on about the million-and-one must-visit shops in the Marais, or just tell you to get lost in the labyrinthine streets and flit from store to store. However, if you need some ideas to get you started: Merci for all things cool, APC for that French je-ne-sais-quoi, Skall Studio but only while their pop-up is open until end of the summer, Soeur for something unlike any other brand we have in North America (in my opinion), Open Dressing and The Room for secondhand/vintage, Dover Street Parfums for niche perfumes, and Officine Universelle Buly for that customized lip balm and lots of other beautiful goodies.
Galeries Lafayette | The quintessential Parisian department store. I just love getting lost in foreign department stores and getting a sense for their brand and product selection (Canadian department stores, please do better). It’s also a great spot to pop-in if you’re short on time but want to check out some key brands like Diptyque, Rouje, APC, Soeur, et al without having to seek out individual boutiques.
TO EAT & DRINK
Maggie | We had the pleasure of dining at Maggie on our first and last nights in the city. Truthfully, it could not have been more convenient being inside the hotel, but it was the delicious food and incredible service that brought us back the second time. I will be thinking about the French fries for a long, long time.
Aux Crus de Bourgogne | While I regretfully do not have an extensive knowledge of French cuisine, Aux Crus de Bourgogne felt like a true, authentic French dining experience. I had the boeuf bourguignon and it was genuinely delicious and perfect for a chilly spring evening.
Chez Janou | Came for the chocolate mousse, but the selection of apps we got (panisse fries, ravioles du dauphiné, and kale Caesar salad) was delicious and more than made up for the fact that the mousse was sold out. Instead we got the crème brûlée and it was so yummy.
Buvette | A small menu featuring sharing plates and croque monsieurs. Delicious cocktails as well.
And some others that were on my list but we didn’t make it to: Bambino for small plates and cocktails with vinyl records playing in the background, Bistrot Paul Bert because that crème caramel looks outstanding, Jones for French cuisine and natural wine, Malro for mediterranean in the Marais, Miznon for falafel, and Ten Belles for coffee and baked goods.
