I’m so excited to share with you the first leg of our recent trip to England. We recently spent 10 days there, with four of those being in the magical Lake District, a land of varied landscapes from rugged mountain passes to wide-open grassy moors and of course, the prettiest glacial lakes you can imagine. We also had the added pleasure of being shown around by my sweet friend and Lake District resident Anna, spending our days driving around in her silver Mini Cooper and seeing all of the beautiful sights.
Springtime in the English countryside is unlike anything I’ve ever experienced. The scent of all of the flowers in full bloom, the lambs dotting the fells, the sound of birds chirping, and the glorious sunshine felt like something out of a storybook. The Lakes have a wild and pastoral landscape, and there’s a culture of genuine appreciation for the relationship between nature and the human spirit. It’s no surprise that this little corner of the country has inspired generations of artists and writers.
I’m not sure how we got so lucky, but we had four stunning days of uninterrupted sunshine and clear skies in a part of England known for its rain, wind, and low-hanging clouds. Being so far north, the daylight extended well past 9pm and it truly felt like each day stretched out in front of us. The wisteria climbing on the old slate cottages and the soft pink and fuschia rhododendrons felt absolutely fairytale-esque.
I’ve received many kind messages requesting an itinerary for our trip, and I feel I need to document every single moment for my own posterity, so this post will include all of the details from our three days of sightseeing in the Lakes (the fourth day was a very chilled one, so there’s not much to report there!). Without further ado, the Lake District!
The Hotel
We checked in to The Penn in the evening, after a four-hour train from London Euston to Oxenholme, followed by a quick 20-minute connection from Oxenholme to Windermere. The Penn is a very sweet family-owned bolthole just a five-minute walk from Windermere train station, and even less to the heart of the village. We stayed in a Deluxe Penn room, which was beautifully appointed with a king-sized bed, free-standing bathtub, and locally-made Pure Lakes toiletries. An absolute dream and I couldn’t recommend this little spot more.
Day One
We started our morning with breakfast at Toast in Windermere before meeting up with Anna to begin exploring. Our first stop of the day was the village of Ambleside, which we wandered around for a few hours. It’s a quaint and cozy little village with narrow streets lined with slate buildings and surrounded by fells in the distance. It was beautiful in the sunshine but it’s the sort of place that I think would feel even more cozy and special on a grey and rainy day. Make sure to stop into Friars for a chocolate shop that feels plucked out of a bygone era, and Bath House for some absolutely beautiful locally-made fragrances and skincare products.
From Ambleside we drove to Little Langdale and strolled through the valley to the village of Elterwater. It was the perfect gentle stroll alongside a stream and adjacent to a field filled with Herdwick sheep and their lambs. A 20-minute walk ended up taking over an hour because we were so engrossed in our surroundings. We ended up at The Britannia Inn for a little lunch before walking back to the car. We made a small pitstop at Coniston Water to sit and relax by the lake, which was so lovely.
We ended our day at Yew Tree Barn for a bit of shopping and their Friday Bistro Night for dinner. Yew Tree Barn is part antique shop and architectural reclamation yard, and part clothing and décor shop with the loveliest selection (compliments to Anna!). I could have spent hours perusing the barn if it weren’t quickly approaching closing time! Dinner was enjoyed al fresco across the street from a cow pasture as the sun set — absolute heaven!
Day Two
Our second morning started with breakfast at Homeground, another little gem in Windermere, before setting off to Hill Top, Beatrix Potter’s house. Purchased in 1905 using the proceeds from her first book, The Tale of Peter Rabbit (you may have heard of it), Hill Top and the surrounding countryside served as inspiration for many of her subsequent works. Beatrix became an important advocate for the Lake District, purchasing parcels of land to protect the area from overdevelopment, and became a respected sheep breeder of Herdwick sheep — the area’s native breed — helping to protect them from extinction.
Today, Hill Top remains largely unchanged since the time when Beatrix lived there. The gardens are magical, and the house itself is a sight to behold with all its quirky angles and many window-seats. The National Trust has done an incredible job turning the site into a museum that still feels alive, highlighting places on the property that inspired Beatrix’s work alongside the matching illustrations from the stories themselves. I could have spent all day exploring the house and the gardens and the vegetable patch — it was heaven!
From Hill Top we drove to the nearby village of Hawkshead for a little wander and lunch break. It’s yet another storybook village with tightly enclosed lanes, characterful buildings, and surrounded by the most incredible scenery. We popped into the local outpost of the Grasmere Gingerbread Shop, which is much larger and less busy than the original location, so I would wholeheartedly recommend stopping in here to properly browse the provisions.
After exploring the village we walked up the steps in front of the church and followed the path around the cemetary to the most picturesque little pasture of sheep. The pathway loops right back around to the village and it was the perfect gentle stroll. From there we headed to the Queen’s Head for a delightful pub lunch.
Our last stop of the day was Langdale Chase, which might just be the most beautiful hotel in the Lakes. Perched on a rocky bluff above Lake Windermere, the property dates back to the 1890s and perfectly encompasses the grandeur of the Victorian era. We stopped in for a little tipple on the terrace, and what a treat it was. The sun was shining, the wisteria were in full bloom, and we somehow managed to get a table at 6pm on the Saturday of a bank holiday. It’s no secret that I love a hotel and oftentimes my taste far exceeds my budget, so dropping in for a drink, a tea, or a meal is my favourite way to have a little snoop around these beautiful hotels until I can justify the nightly rate.
We sat for about three hours nursing our spritzes (and half-pint for Jonah, my boyfriend), just chatting and trying to soak up as much of the view and the sunshine as we could. The interiors of the lobby were just as special as the exterior — painterly wallpaper, ornate wood panelling, and the most quintessentially English furnishings. It’s officially on my bucket list to spend a night here one day — it was so special!
Day Three
Day three began with a drive over to the sweet little village of Grasmere, the original home of the aforementioned gingerbread shop. We started with brunch at Mathilde’s, which is a gorgeous Scandinavian-inspired spot with a lovely gallery space to explore. We purchased more gingerbread, this time at the original Grasmere Gingerbread Shop where they have been making these scrumptious treats since the 1800s, and then popped into a lovely little shop called Grasmere Gather. They carry a beautiful selection of home goods and accessories, from Herdwick-wool throws to Liberty print tissue box covers (one of which came home with me). There was also Herdwick yarn and beautiful knitted pieces, British skincare products, and some lovely coffee table books. A great spot for a very local souvenir or two!
From the village we got back into the car to head to the trailhead of Loughrigg Fell, which is a gentle uphill walk that provides a very satisfying view in relation to the amount of effort it took to get there. We walked up to Rydal Cave and then headed back down the fell to walk along Rydal Water and back to the car. The total journey was about two hours including one break inside the cave and another for a scone (yes, it was gingerbread). For those who want to explore a bit of nature without getting too intense, I couldn’t recommend this route more.
From the car park, we headed to Traveller’s Rest for a drink in the beer garden (beside a flock of sheep, might I add), and then drove back to Bowness for fish and chips on the shores of Lake Windermere. A very full and active day!
Day Four
Our fourth and final day in the Lakes was a very relaxed one. We started in Kendal with brunch at Farrer’s which truly felt like stepping back in time to an old-world traditional tea shop. Make sure to get a meal with Cumberland sausages, which are a local specialty.
We then went for a small walk in Lakeside and then had a little private tour with Anna’s very sweet parents around the area. We ended our day a bit early with dinner back in Windermere at the Crafty Baa Pub, before I retired back to my chamber. Jonah went for a sunset stroll up Orrest Head, which he reported was a nice walk with full panoramic views of Lake Windermere and the surrounding fells (and lots of sheep).
And that was our four gorgeous, fairytale-esque days in the Lakes. Jonah and I are already talking about going back because it was truly that special, filled with glorious nature and an appreciation for beauty and preservation that truly shifted something inside of me. A very magical trip indeed!
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